Gazelle fuel tank
If the fuel tank is leaking, it must be removed from the vehicle
To do this, loosen the nuts securing the hinge plate of the filler pipe hatch and remove bracket 3, remove the body floor hatch (above the fuel tank) and disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel intake, remove the wires going to the fuel gauge sensor and isolate them, disconnect from clamping bands (previously placing stops under the tank) and remove the tank.
Before checking the tightness of the fuel tank, remove the fuel level indicator sensor and the fuel intake with a filter, for which unscrew five screws securing their flanges to the tank; remove the filling pipe with hoses (for vans and buses).
The tightness of the fuel tank is checked with compressed air at a pressure of 20 kPa (0.2 kgf / cm2), placing it in water, after closing all flanges and openings with plugs or plugs.
Air is supplied through a special tube inserted into the filling pipe and equipped with a valve to shut off air access when the pressure rises above 20 kPa (0.2 kgf/cm2) and a control pressure gauge.
Air bubbles will come out in places of leakage. These places should be marked with paint.
It is possible to solder the tank only after thoroughly washing it (inside and outside) with hot water and blowing with compressed air. After soldering, the tightness of the tank should be checked again.
Assembly and installation of the fuel tank is performed in the reverse order of disassembly and removal of the tank from the vehicle.
When assembling, it is necessary to monitor the safety and correct installation of the gaskets under the flanges of the intake pipe and the level indicator sensor. to prevent leakage of fuel through loose threads, it is recommended to dip the flange fastening screws in minium or shellac before tightening.
All tank connections, in order to avoid depressurization after assembly and installation on the car, must be tightened tightly, but without much effort.
Faulty parts of the fuel lines should be replaced with new ones.
Fuel pump for engine ZMZ-402
The fuel pump requires repair in cases of diaphragm rupture, leakage of suction or exhaust valves, loss of elasticity of the diaphragm thrust seal, as well as wear of the drive lever and the diaphragm thrust textolite washer.
Disassemble the fuel pump in the following order:
- - unscrew the two screws 5 securing the cover and carefully remove the cover, rubber seal and pump strainer;
- - unscrew the eight screws securing the pump head to the body, carefully remove the head and release the diaphragm;
- - if it is necessary to replace the valves, press the valve holders out of the pump head, remove the rubber valve, valve plate and spring from the holder.
It is not recommended to unscrew the fuel inlet and outlet fittings from the pump head and cover without the need;
- - unscrew the screw plugs of the lever axis from the body;
- - remove the lever axle, having previously removed the lever spring;
- - remove the pump drive lever and the lever sleeve;
- - remove the diaphragm together with the rod, spring, seal and seal holder from the pump housing;
- - remove the shaft of the hand drive lever together with the sealing rubber ring, after releasing the lever spring;
- - disassemble the diaphragm, for which press the spring and, having removed the steel holder of the seal, remove it;
- - unscrew the rod nut, remove the spring washer, upper cup, diaphragm blades, lower cup and sealing washer.
Inspection and control of pump parts
Carefully inspect the condition of the parts, having previously cleaned and washed them in kerosene or unleaded gasoline. If it is necessary to replace the valve, pay special attention to the condition of the seat in the head.
Replace rubber valves, head cover gasket or diaphragm blades that are warped and loose elasticity.
The total wear of the working surface of the lever, the lever hole, bushing, axle and pump housing, as well as the textolite washer of the diaphragm rod, is considered acceptable within the limits that provide a pump flow of at least 145 l / h at an eccentric speed of 1800 min1.
Assembly of the pump is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly. In this case, special attention should be paid to the correct subassembly of the diaphragm and its installation in the pump.
Before assembly, it is necessary to check the characteristics of the pump spring: the free length of the spring is 50 mm; with a load of 50 + 3 N (5.1 + 0.3 kgf), the length of the spring should be 28.5 mm.
The number of turns of the spring is 6 + 0.5, the outer diameter of the spring is 24 mm, the wire diameter is (1.80.03) mm, the material is 65GA steel.
It is recommended to assemble the diaphragm in a special tool.
Before assembling, wash all parts in clean gasoline, soak the diaphragm blades for 30-40 minutes in kerosene and wipe with a clean cloth on both sides.
Then, insert the rod into the fixture and sequentially put on the protruding end of the rod the rubber seal of the rod, the sealing copper washer, the lower cup (concave side down), the four blades of the diaphragm (so that the pins of the fixture fit into its hole), the upper cup and wrap nut by hand on several threads of thread, placing a spring washer under it.
Then clamp all the parts in the fixture and tighten the nut to the full.
Remove the assembled diaphragm from the fixture, put the spring on the rod and release the rubber seal from the spring.
Press the spring and install the steel holder on the rubber seal.
When pressing valve clips into the pump head, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions between the valve plate and the clip are 1.5–1.8 mm for inlet valves, and 2.0–2.3 mm for discharge valves.
When assembling a fully assembled diaphragm (with a seal and a spring, with a head and a body), first lightly tighten the eight screws securing the head to the body, and then, moving the manual drive lever to its highest position, fully tighten them.
This will prevent the diaphragm from bursting or being overextended when the pump starts.
When assembling the pump, the head and cover must be placed relative to the body in the position shown in Figure 5.
After assembly, check the pump for the start of delivery, pressure, vacuum and flow as indicated above.
Disassembly of the carburetor is recommended in the following order:
- - unscrew the screw securing the air damper rod to the drive lever;
- - unscrew the seven screws securing the float chamber cover, remove the cover and the gasket under it, being careful not to damage the gasket;
- - unscrew the two screws and remove the air damper if the gaps between the air damper and the air inlet are larger than normal;
- - unscrew the screw and remove the accelerator pump atomizer;
- - unscrew the screw and remove the econostat atomizer;
- - unscrew the plug and remove the float shaft, remove the float, remove the fuel valve needle. Unscrew the fuel valve body together with the gasket;
- - unscrew the filter plug and remove the strainer;
- - unscrew the four screws securing the accelerator pump diaphragm cover, remove the cover and remove the diaphragm with the spring;
- - unscrew the main jets of the first and second chambers of the carburetor;
- - unscrew the air jets and remove the emulsion tubes of the first and second chambers;
- - unscrew the jets of the idle system of the first chamber and the jets of the transition system;
- - unscrew the two screws and remove the forced idle economizer diaphragm locking device;
- - unscrew the three screws and remove the standalone system case.
Checking and inspecting carburetor parts
After disassembly, wash the parts in gasoline, blow with compressed air and check their technical condition, which must meet the following requirements:
- - all parts must be clean, without soot and resinous deposits;
- - nozzles after washing and blowing with compressed air must have a given capacity or size;
- - all valves must be tight, gaskets must be intact and have traces (imprints) of sealing planes;
- - there should be no noticeable wear (backlash) in the joints: float axis - float bracket, mixing chamber bosses - throttle valve axes.
Sat Orca carburetor is made in the reverse order of disassembly.
First, you need to assemble all three parts of the carburetor - the cover, the bodies of the float and mixing chambers, and then connect them together. When assembling, you need:
- - monitor the safety and correct installation of gaskets;
- - make sure that the throttle and air dampers turn completely freely, without jamming and tightly cover their channels;
- - tighten all threaded connections tightly, but without excessive force;
- - check and, if necessary, adjust the fuel level in the float chamber.