In cold weather, the GAZ-3110 engine starts easily, but stalls, and only after several attempts to start it starts to work stably
Engine starts long:
- Gasoline has evaporated from the carburetor float chamber (after a long parking, especially in hot weather)
After a long stay, you can pump up gasoline with the manual fuel pump lever
- The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system, the fuel filters are clogged, the hoses are pinched, the fuel lines are deformed, the injectors are leaking
Check the pressure in the system by connecting a pressure gauge to the inlet hose of the fuel rail and turning on the ignition (at least 3 kgf/cm2).
Make sure the strainer of the gas receiver is clean, inspect the fuel lines.
Clean the mesh of the gas receiver, replace the filters, eliminate the kinks in the hoses; a fuel pump that does not provide the desired pressure in the system and with low productivity - replace. Replace defective injectors;
- The fuel pressure regulator is faulty (the drain channel is constantly ajar)
Using a suitable tee, connect a pressure gauge to the inlet hose of the fuel rail and turn on the ignition - the fuel pressure in the rail must be at least 3 kgf / cm2.
If this is not the case, pinch the outlet hose - the pressure should increase (this indicates the health of the fuel pump and the supply line).
Check if vacuum is being supplied from the intake manifold to the regulator - if so, the regulator is faulty. Replace the defective regulator.
Engine runs erratically or stalls at idle:
- Engine not warmed up by temperature gauge
Warm up the engine to operating temperature;
- Clogged fuel lines, fuel filters, water got into the fuel
Inspection, replacement. Clean the gas receiver mesh, replace the filters, if you suspect a low quality of gasoline, especially on the eve of the winter season, use special fuel additives that dissolve water. After using them, it is recommended to replace the fuel filters
- Engine idle control broken
See The power supply system of the ZMZ-402 engine. Adjust the idle speed (see Adjusting the carburetor K-151 auto GAZ-3110)
- Air inlet into intake manifold
Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses, fittings, tightness of the clamps.
Temporarily turn off the vacuum brake booster by pinching the corresponding hose (the force on the brake pedal will increase significantly!) Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, replace the faulty vacuum booster
- Clogged carburetor fuel jets (main fuel and idle) The engine starts only after a few vigorous presses on the gas pedal. A hot engine starts better than a cold one.
Inspect, blow channels and jets. Rinse with gasoline or acetone and blow out the jets, if heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or soft wood needle (toothpick). Tighten the jets tightly (do not damage the threads and the jet!)
- Insufficient fuel level in carburetor float chamber. The engine does not start well and "pulls" poorly. Possible pops in the carburetor. When the "suction" button is pulled out, jerks and dips decrease or disappear completely.
Pull up the carburetor cap to check the fuel level. Adjust the fuel level (see "Adjusting the carburetor K-151 auto GAZ-3110”)</ p>
- the fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system
Remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor and, holding it with your finger, pump fuel with the pump lever.
A working pump should develop a noticeable pressure, which should be kept in the hose for at least 10 s. Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragm
- the fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system, the engine does not start well and “pulls” poorly.
Check the pressure at the outlet of the fuel pump (at least 3.5 kgf / cm2), make sure the gas filter strainer is clean.
Clean the fuel gauge. Fuel pump that does not provide the desired pressure in the system - replace
-The fuel pressure regulator is faulty (the drain channel is constantly ajar), the engine starts for a long time.
Using a suitable tee, connect a pressure gauge to the inlet hose of the fuel rail - the fuel pressure in the rail must be at least 2.5 kgf / cm2 at idle.
If this is not the case, pinch the outlet hose - the pressure should increase (this indicates the health of the fuel pump and supply line). Replace defective regulator
- Carburetor fuel jets are loose. Air jets clogged. There is a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe, a cold engine starts better than a hot one.
Is the fuel level in the float chamber normal? (Pull up the carb cap to check).
Wash with solvent or acetone and blow through the jets, if heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or a softwood needle (toothpick). Tighten the jets tightly (do not damage the threads and the jet!)
- Excessive fuel level in carburetor float chamber. There is a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe, a cold engine starts better than a hot one.
Remove the top cover of the carburetor, check the tightness of the float, its ease of movement and the absence of touching the walls of the float chamber.
Checking the tightness of the needle valve: after removing the carburetor cover and pulling the float up with your finger, pump gasoline with the fuel pump lever. The slightest shadow of gasoline from under the needle or valve seat is unacceptable.
Replace the needle valve, adjust the fuel level in the float chamber (see "Disassembly and assembly of the GAZ-3110 carburetor ")
- Re-enriched mixture due to gasoline leaking into the crankcase through a torn fuel pump diaphragm. The oil on the dipstick smells like gasoline, at idle the low oil pressure lamp may light up
Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragm; if there is a lot of gasoline in the oil, then the oil
- EGR valve stuck open
Try moving the valve stem to close it. At medium engine speeds, the stem should move (in this case, the valve opens due to vacuum in the supply hose), at idle and at full load - no. Replace defective valve
- The EPHX control unit or its circuit is faulty. When +12 V is supplied from the battery to the solenoid valve, engine operation is normal
Ensure reliable contact in the EPHX control circuit, replace the defective EPHX control unit. You can get to the place of repair by applying +12 V to the solenoid valve
- The gap between the spark plug electrodes is out of specification
Gap 07-085 mm or 0.8-095 mm check with a special round feeler gauge. By bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles
- Heavy soot on spark plug electrodes; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes
(Inspection) Clean the candles with compressed air or mechanically (do not damage the insulator), make sure they are working (the absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on the turned-out candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working).
Identify and eliminate the cause of increased carbon formation in the combustion chamber, if necessary, replace the candles
- Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact in the center electrode assembly
Replace candles with known good ones or check on a special stand - (The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working.) Replace faulty candles
- Damage to high voltage devices and circuits
Having securely fastened the end of the high-voltage wire at a distance of 6-3 mm from the mass of the car, scroll the engine with a starter (do not touch the high-voltage wires).
A spark should regularly jump between the wire and ground (use only known-good high-voltage wires for testing).
If there is no spark at the output of the ignition coil, the coil is faulty, if at the output / outputs of the ignition distributor, the slider or distributor cap is faulty.
The burnout of the slider or cover is determined visually. The serviceability of the resistor of the slider and the resistors of the candle tips is checked with an ohmmeter.
Change the high voltage wires to check and the ignition coils are obviously good. Replace the defective ignition coil/coils.
Replace damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires after 3-5 years.
Clean the distributor cover and slider from dirt and moisture, replace the burned-out slider resistor, if insulation breakdown is suspected (burnouts, cracks in the slider and distributor caps) - replace them
- Incorrect ignition timing - See "Ignition System"
Adjust ignition timing
- Faulty ignition distributor - Determined by an autotester (see "Ignition system") or by replacing the distributor with a known good one
Replace or repair the ignition distributor
- Loose or broken springs of the weights of the centrifugal regulator of the ignition distributor, damper rings of the weights are lost, jamming of the weights
Visually and on a special stand, replace or repair the ignition distributor
- Fuzzy operation of the vacuum ignition timing controller: when the vacuum is removed, the plate does not return to its original position, there is a large play in the bearing
Inspection. The characteristic of the vacuum regulator is taken on a special stand. Eliminate jamming, replace faulty vacuum regulator or ignition distributor assembly
- Faulty Switch
Disconnect the wires from the ignition distributor. Fix the tip of the high-voltage wire coming from the ignition coil at a distance of 6-8 mm from the ground
Manually close and open the "+" and "D" contacts of the switch. At the moment of opening, a spark should jump between the tip of the high-voltage wire and the “ground”. Replace defective switch
- The sensors of the engine control system, the control unit (less often), the injectors (the windings are burned out or the atomizers are very dirty) or their circuits are faulty
If there is a malfunction of the electronic components and electrical circuits, the KMSUD indicator lamp is lit. By diagnostic codes, you can accurately determine the malfunction (see "Checking the operation of the KMSUD in the GAZ-3110 fault code display mode").
Check the crankshaft position sensor circuit with an ohmmeter, the resistance of the sensor itself (850-900 ohms); visually - no mechanical damage to the sensor.
Clean the sensor rod from metal dust, check the gap between it and the crankshaft ring gear (1.0-1.5 mm).
Check the operation of the injectors, electrical circuits and sensors (see "Checking and replacing GAZ-3110 sensors")
Replace the faulty unit, sensors, wires, injectors. Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand
- The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty
Replace a known-good regulator, replace a failed regulator
- Variable valve timing
Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)
- Clearances in valve drive not adjusted
Checked with a set of probes. Adjust gaps
- Camshaft Lobe Wear
Inspection after partial engine disassembly. Replace camshaft
- Low cylinder compression (less than 10 kg/cm2): wear or damage to valves, seats, wear, sticking or breakage piston rings
Warm the engine up to operating temperature and remove the spark plugs. Press the “gas” pedal all the way and, inserting a compression gauge into the spark plug holes, turn the crankshaft with a starter (work together).
In this case, it is necessary to close the ignition coil to the high-voltage wire
disable engine management system 1 (by removing the appropriate fuse or by disconnecting the wires from the general power relay of the control system or from the crankshaft position sensor).
Repeat the measurements, pouring 10-15 cm3 of engine oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes.
In those cylinders where the compression has increased by more than 2 kgf / cm2, the rings may be heavily worn, broken or stuck. If the compression remains below 10 kgf/cm2.possible wear or damage to the valves or their seats
Replace rings, pistons, cylinder liners
Repair the cylinders.
Lap the valves to the seats, if necessary, replace the valves, their guide bushings, grind the valve seats