Lever-type clutch - dry, single-disk, consists of a casing assembly with a pressure plate, a clutch release lever, support forks, springs and a driven disc assembly with friction linings

Lever Type Clutch

Clutch cover 4 is fixed to the crankshaft flywheel with six centering (special) bolts.

The force of nine double pressure springs 5 ​​and 6 creates the necessary friction force on the surfaces of the friction linings and ensures the transmission of torque from the flywheel through the casing and pressure plate 26 to the clutch disc and the gearbox input shaft.

Clutch release levers 25 are pivotally mounted on the casing using spherical adjusting nuts 10, which also install the ends of the clutch release levers in the same plane.

The clutch drive plate is factory balanced with the crankshaft and flywheel of the engine, so when removing and installing it, it is necessary to align the marks ((0)) on the flywheel and clutch cover.

Clutch Drive

The clutch disc is equipped with a friction damper, consisting of a steel friction washer 3, sitting on the flats of the hub 12 and sandwiched between the disc 6 and the heat-insulating washer 2.

Vibrations are damped due to friction between these parts when disk 6 with friction linings rotates relative to the hub.

The constancy of the compression force of the washer 3, and, consequently, the constancy of the friction moment in the absorber is ensured by the lamellar pressure spring 1 fixed in the groove of the driven disk hub.

The outer diameter of the friction lining is 225 mm, the inner diameter is 150 mm, the thickness of the lining is 3.5 mm.

The dimension of the splines of the hub of the driven disk is 4-23-29 mm, the number of splines is 10.

The clutch release bearing and the bearing clutch contain special lubricants that do not require replacement during the entire life of the vehicle.

Clutch release drive

Hydraulic clutch release

Clutch maintenance

It is necessary to check and top up, if necessary, the liquid in the reservoir of the working cylinder.


  • - for the presence of air in the hydraulic clutch actuator;
  • - to the possible overlap of the compensation hole of the main cylinder with the edge of the cuff;
  • - for clogging of the compensation hole due to clogging.

In these cases, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic drive, replace the cuff or flush the cylinder.

The degree of wear of the friction linings can be judged by the distance between the flywheel and the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged.

If this distance is less than 6 mm, then it is advisable to remove the driven disk for inspection and replacement of friction linings.

It is recommended, if possible, to replace the driven disk assembly with overlays.

It is advisable to check the distance between the flywheel and the pressure plate after 60,000 km.

To carry out measurements, it is necessary to install the car on an inspection ditch or lift and remove the lower stamped part of the clutch housing.

Removing, repairing and installing the clutch

For repair work, the clutch can be removed from the vehicle without removing the engine. to do this, the car should be installed on a flyover, lift or inspection ditch.

To remove the clutch you need:

  • - disconnect the gearshift lever from the gearbox, for which, from the inside of the body, lift the outer rubber seal to the lever handle, unscrew the cap located on the neck of the gearshift mechanism, and pull the lever up;
  • - disconnect the release spring and cable from the intermediate lever of the parking brake actuator;
  • - remove cardan shaft;
  • - disconnect from the gearbox the flexible cable of the speedometer drive and the wires of the reverse light switch;
  • - unscrew the two bolts securing the working cylinder to the crankcase and lift up the working cylinder with the pusher without disconnecting it from the pipeline;
  • - remove the clutch release fork by unscrewing the cover frame fastening bolt;
  • - unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the stamped lower part of the clutch housing;
  • - remove the connecting bracket of the silencer pipe suspension;
  • - detach the cross member of the rear engine mount from the side member brackets;
  • - unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the gearbox to the clutch housing and remove the gearbox together with the clutch and bearing off i clutch;
  • - remove the gasket between the clutch housing and the gearbox;
  • - check for the presence of combined marks 0 on the engine flywheel and pressure plate casing, if they are absent, apply them;
  • - gradually unscrew the bolts securing the clutch cover to the flywheel, while turning the engine crankshaft;
  • - remove the driven and pressure plates of the clutch from the clutch housing through the lower hatch.

To remove the hydraulic drive from the vehicle, you must:

  • - disconnect the pipeline from the clutch slave cylinder;
  • - drain the liquid from the hydraulic system through the disconnected end of the pipeline into a clean vessel;
  • - disconnect and remove the clutch release cylinder and the pusher of the working cylinder;
  • - remove the release spring of the clutch pedal;
  • - disconnect the master cylinder pusher from the pedal, remove two plastic bushings from the pusher eye;
  • - unpin and unscrew the axle nut of the clutch and brake pedals;
  • - remove the clutch pedal from the axis, remove the two plastic bushings from the part boss;
  • - disconnect the pipeline from the clutch master cylinder and remove the pipeline;
  • - disconnect and remove the clutch release master cylinder.

When dismantling the clutch cover assembly (if there is no special tool), you must:

  • - make marks on the casing, levers and pressure plate to keep the balance during assembly;

Clutch cover removal

  • - put the pressure plate on the press table, placing a wooden stand under the disc so that the paws of the casing can move down.

Place a wooden block on top of the casing so that it does not cover the three nuts that secure the support forks of the clutch release levers.

By pressing on the upper bar, compress the springs and unload the clutch release levers from the forces;

  • - unscrew the nuts of the support forks of the clutch release levers and smoothly release the press;
  • - remove the clutch cover;
  • - remove pressure springs and heat-insulating washers;
  • - unpin and remove the axles of the clutch release levers from the lugs of the pressure plate, remove the bearing needles;
  • - unpin and remove the axles of the release levers from the support forks, remove the bearing needles.

Checking the runout and fixing the driven disc

A driven disk with new linings must be checked for runout of the friction plane.

The runout of the disc linings, measured at the edge of the disc, should be no more than 0.7 mm.

Then the disk must be statically balanced using special balancing weights that are inserted into the holes of the driven disk plate and riveted.

The number of weights should be no more than three. The heads of the weights must be located on the side of the friction damper.

The admissible imbalance of the driven disk should be no more than 10 gsm.

The assembly of the casing with the clutch pressure plate is done in the reverse order of disassembly.

In this case, it is necessary to make sure that the marks made during disassembly on the casing, pressure plate and levers match, and the pressure springs are centered on the casing flanges.

In order to prevent the needles from falling out of the holes in the levers, it is necessary to install rubber balls with a diameter of 85-8.0 mm or generously lubricate the needles with grease.

Pressure springs must be installed only with the required load and one group in order to avoid distortion of the pressure plate and to create the necessary pressure force.

Clutch release lever adjustment

After assembly, adjust the position of the release levers. If there is no special tool, the indicated operation can be performed using the removed flywheel.

In this case, the pressure plate, assembled with the clutch cover, is installed on the working surface of the flywheel.

Between the pressure plate and the flywheel, washers of the same thickness - 8 mm are placed in three places.

While screwing or unscrewing the adjusting spherical nuts of the support forks, ensure that the size from the end of the flywheel to the end of each lever is (51±0.25) mm

After adjustment, caulk (penetrate) the metal of the shank of each spherical nut into the slot of the support fork.

If during assembly the release levers, casing or pressure plate were replaced, then it is necessary to statically balance the casing with the pressure plate assemblyI use drilling metal from the bosses of the pressure plate, which are used to install the pressure springs.

Drilling depth from the edge of the boss should be no more than 25 mm, including the drill cone. admissible unbalance of the pressure plate - no more than 25 gsm.

Assembly of the hydraulic clutch release - in the reverse order of disassembly.

Before assembly, the cylinder mirror must be lubricated with castor oil or fresh brake fluid.

When assembling the master cylinder, it is necessary to check that the return spring easily returns the piston to its original position.

Next, you should check with a soft wire with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm whether the cuff overlaps the compensation hole.

The use of a master cylinder with a blocked compensation hole is not allowed.

When assembling the working cylinder, you need to make sure that the spring easily moves the piston in the cylinder.

Filling the hydraulic drive with fluid

  • - fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid to a normal level (15-20 mm below the upper edge of the reservoir);
  • - remove the protective cap from the head of the valve for bleeding the working cylinder and put a rubber hose on the head;
  • - immerse the free end of the hose in brake fluid poured into a glass vessel with a capacity of at least 0.5 liters, half filled;
  • - create pressure in the system by sharply pressing 4-5 times with an interval of 1-2 seconds. on the clutch pedal;
  • - keeping the pedal depressed, unscrew the bleed valve of the working cylinder by 1/2-3/4 turns, making sure that the free end of the hose remains immersed in the liquid. Liquid with air bubbles will go into the vessel;
  • - after the outflow of liquid into the vessel stops, turn the valve all the way down, and then release the pedal;
  • - check for fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

Do not allow the fluid level in the tank to drop to more than 2/3 of normal during pumping and add fluid as needed;

  • - repeat the indicated operations until liquid comes out of the hose without air bubbles;
  • - while holding the pedal down, turn the bleed valve of the working cylinder to failure and then slowly release the pedal;
  • - remove the hose from the valve head and put a rubber cap on the valve head;
  • - add fluid to the master cylinder reservoir to a normal level.

It is impossible to add liquid released during pumping of the hydraulic drive into the reservoir of the main cylinder, as it contains air.