The crankshaft is turned by the starter, but the GAZ-3110 engine does not start
Problems with starting a car engine can be divided into two main groups depending on the degree of engine heating
At least 6 hours have passed since the engine was turned off at an outside air temperature of +20 °C and at least 3 hours at -20 °C, the temperature of the oil in the engine crankcase coincides with the ambient temperature.
Techniques for starting an engine with a fuel injection system are the same at any outside temperature.
Engine warm or hot
The temperature of the oil in the crankcase is higher than the ambient air temperature. To start, just turn on the starter without touching the gas pedal.
The engine management system will automatically set the fuel and ignition parameters necessary for starting.
- There is no fuel in the tank according to the fuel gauge and control lamp
Pour fuel into the tank
- Battery low
The voltage at the battery terminals with consumers turned off is below 12 V.
After a few turns, the starter stops turning the crankshaft, while cracking can be heard from under the hood. Charge the battery; if it does not charge - replace
- Decreased battery capacity
The voltage at the battery terminals when consumers are off is more than 12 V, but when the starter is turned on, it drops to 6 V.
After a few revolutions, the starter stops turning the crankshaft, while cracking can be heard from under the hood.
Check that there is no short circuit in the starter (see above) Charge the battery with a small current (no more than 1 A); if the capacity is still insufficient, replace the battery
- Oxidation of battery terminals, loose fit
When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals.
After a few turns, the starter stops turning the crankshaft, while cracking can be heard from under the hood. Crimp the terminals, clean the contacts, lubricate them with any grease
- Thickened engine oil in winter
Look at the oil on the dipstick. Change the oil to suit the climatic conditions
- Malfunction in the low voltage circuit
Check with an ohmmeter the circuit from the battery to the ignition coil (through the ignition switch) and then to the switch.
Clean oxidized terminals, tighten loose wire fasteners, replace damaged wires, ignition switch or its contact part
- Faulty ignition distributor
Determined by an autotester (see "Ignition System") or by replacing the sensor with a known good one. Replace defective sensor
- Faulty circuit switch - ignition distributor
Check with an ohmmeter. Strip oxidized terminals, tighten loose wire fasteners, replace damaged wires
- Faulty switch
Disconnect the wires from the ignition distributor. Fix the tip of the high-voltage wire coming from the ignition coil at a distance of 6-3 mm from the ground.
Manually close and open the "+" and "D" contacts of the switch.
At the moment of opening, a spark should jump between the tip of the high-voltage wire and the ground. Replace defective switch
- Damage to high-voltage devices and circuits
Having securely fastened the end of the high-voltage wire at a distance of 6-3 mm from the "mass" of the car, scroll the engine with a starter (do not touch the high-voltage circuits!).
A spark should regularly jump between the wire and the ground (use only known-good high-voltage wires for testing).
If there is no spark at the output of the ignition coil, the coil is faulty, if at the output / outputs of the ignition distributor, the slider or distributor cap is faulty.
The burnout of the slider or cover is determined visually. The serviceability of the resistor of the slider and the resistors of the candle tips is checked with an ohmmeter.
For testing purposes, substitute the high voltage wires and ignition coils with known good ones. Replace defective ignition coil/coils. Replace damaged high-voltage wires.
In severe operating conditions, salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws, it is advisable to replace the wires after 3-5 years
Clean the distributor cover and slider from dirt and moisture, replace the burned-out resistor of the slider, if insulation breakdown (burnouts, cracks) of the slider and distributor cover is suspected, replace them
- High voltage wires connected to the distributor / ignition coils in the wrong order
Inspection. Connect the wires according to the firing order of the cylinders
- The gap between the electrodes of the candles does not correspond to the norm
Gap 0.7-0.85mm or 0.8-0.95mm proverified with a round probe. By bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles
- Defective candles
Replace the candles with known good ones or check on a special stand - (The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on the turned out candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working). Replace faulty spark plugs
- Incorrect ignition timing
See "Ignition system". Adjust ignition timing
The valve timing is broken. Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)
- Power is not supplied to the engine control unit
Check if +12 V is supplied to terminals 1 and 2 of the engine management harness, the engine management system relay is activated, if +12 V is supplied to terminal 37 of the control unit when the ignition is turned on, and also - regardless of the position of the ignition switch - to pin 18 of the block (see diagram).
Also check the mass wires with an ohmmeter: terminal 12 of the harness block, terminals 2, 14, 19.24 of the control unit. Replace faulty relays, wires, connectors. Strip and crimp the terminals
- The engine control unit, its circuits or sensor are faulty. The indicator lamp KMSUD is on.
By diagnostic codes, you can accurately determine the malfunction (see “ZMZ-4062 engine control system”)
Check the crankshaft position sensor circuit with an ohmmeter, the resistance of the sensor itself (850-900 ohms); visually check the absence of mechanical damage to the sensor.
Clean the sensor rod from metal dust, check the gap between it and the crankshaft ring gear (1.0-1.5 mm). For testing, replace the control unit with a known good one. Replace the faulty unit, sensor, wires
- Fuel filters are clogged, water in the power system is frozen, hoses are pinched, fuel line pipes are deformed
When the engine is cranked with a starter, there is no smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe. There is no gasoline in the float chamber of carburetor 1 - when you press the “gas” from the accelerator pump nozzle, there is no fuel jet.
The presence of petrol (under pressure) in fuel rail 1 can be checked by momentarily disconnecting the supply hose from the fuel rail (remember that petrol is flammable!)
In winter, drive the car into a warm garage, blow (with a tire pump) the power supply system from the engine to the fuel tank, replace damaged hoses and pipes, clogged filters
- Fuel pump not working
Remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor and, holding it with your finger, pump fuel with the pump lever.
A working pump should develop a noticeable pressure, which should be held in the hose for at least 10 seconds. Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragm
- Bad contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) or its relay is faulty
The No. 9 fuse in the right fuse box has blown. It is checked with an ohmmeter on de-energized circuits or with a voltmeter under voltage.
Inspect fuse number 9. Strip contacts, crimp terminals, replace faulty relay, wires, blown fuse (make sure that there is no short circuit in the protected circuit beforehand)
- The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system
Check the pressure at the outlet of the fuel pump (at least 3.5 kgf / cm2), make sure the gas filter strainer is clean.
Clean the fuel gauge. Fuel pump that does not provide the desired pressure in the system - replace
- The injectors or their circuits are faulty (if one or two injectors fail, the engine still starts)
The KMSUD indicator lamp may be lit. By diagnostic codes, you can accurately determine the malfunction (see “Engine control system ZMZ-4062').
Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit).
Make sure they are working (by clicking when power is applied to the winding). Replace faulty nozzles, ensure contact in electrical circuits
- The EPHX solenoid valve is faulty or no voltage is applied to it when the ignition is turned on (the EPHX control unit, its circuits, the microswitch are faulty)
See The power supply system of the ZMZ-402 engine. If the valve itself is working, then when +12 V is supplied to it from the battery, the engine should start. Replace the faulty valve, EPHX control unit, ensure contact in the electrical circuits
- The carburetor starter or its drive is faulty or not adjusted See "ZMZ-402 engine power system"
Adjust starter, replace worn parts
- Intake of extraneous air into the intake manifold
Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses, fittings, tightness of the clamps. Temporarily turn off the vacuum brake booster by clamping the appropriate leaking hose (the force on the brake pedal will increase significantly)
Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster, replace
- Clogged fuel jets of the carburetor main fuel and idle.
The engine starts only after a few vigorous presses on the gas pedal. A hot engine starts better than a cold one.
Inspect, blow channels and jets.
Rinse with gasoline or acetone and blow through the jets, if heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or a soft wood needle (toothpick).
Tighten the jets tightly (do not damage the threads and the jet)
- The carburetor fuel jets are loose. Clogged air jets
There is a strong smell of gasoline coming from the exhaust pipe, a cold engine starts better than a hot one. The fuel level in the float chamber is normal (lift the carburetor cap to check).
Rinse with gasoline or acetone and blow through the jets, if heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or a soft wood needle (toothpick). Tighten the jets tightly (do not damage the threads and the jet!)
- Excessive fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
There is a strong smell of gasoline coming from the exhaust pipe, a cold engine starts better than a hot one
Remove the top cover of the carburetor, check the tightness of the float, its ease of movement and the absence of touching the walls of the float chamber.
Checking the tightness of the needle valve: after removing the carburetor cover and pulling the float up with your finger, pump gasoline with the fuel pump lever.
The slightest leak of gasoline from under the needle or valve seat is unacceptable. Replace needle valve, adjust float chamber fuel level
- Re-enriched mixture due to gasoline leaking into the engine crankcase through a torn fuel pump diaphragm
The oil on the dipstick smells of gasoline, at idle, the low oil pressure lamp may light up.
Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragms; if there is a lot of gasoline in engine oil, then oil
- EGR valve stuck open
Try moving the valve stem to close it.
At medium engine speeds, the stem should move (in this case, the valve opens due to vacuum in the supply hose), at idle and at full load - no.
Check the operation of the thermal valve on the cylinder head:
- it must open at temperatures above 40°C. The defective valve will be replaced