The master cylinder must be repaired or replaced when the pressure in the clutch release actuator is not maintained (when the pedal is pressed smoothly, the pedal reaches the stop, but the clutch does not disengage)

When there are obvious signs of fluid leakage from the master cylinder.

Let's see how it's done:

Remove

Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap and take out the screen.

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinderRemoving and repairing the clutch master cylinder

Remove cap 1, open valve 2 on the clutch slave cylinder and drain the fluid from the system into a container.

Unscrew the fastening nut and disconnect the tube from the master cylinder.

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinder

In the passenger compartment, disconnect the pusher from the clutch pedal by unscrewing the nut 1 and removing the axle 2 of the pusher with two plastic bushings.

Unscrew the two nuts 3 securing the cylinder to the bulkhead and remove the master cylinder.

Disassembly

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinderRemoving and repairing the clutch master cylinder

Pry off the protective cap with a screwdriver, slide it off the cylinder body and turn it inside out

Clamp the cylinder in a vise.

Remove retaining ring 1 while holding pusher 2 and carefully pull pusher out of cylinder

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinderRemoving and repairing the clutch master cylinder

Remove piston 1 with collar 2

Remove piston valve

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinderRemoving and repairing the clutch master cylinder

Remove the inner cuff.

Remove the spring.

When repairing the master cylinder, it is not recommended to unscrew the fitting if there are no signs of fluid leakage.

Removing and repairing the clutch master cylinder

If it is necessary to remove the tank, unscrew the tank fitting together with the gasket and remove the tank together with the gasket

Inspection and defect detection of parts of the clutch master cylinder

Wash the master cylinder parts with clean brake fluid and dry.

The mirror of the main cylinder should not have scratches, shells and corrosion centers.

If these defects are present, replace the cylinder.

There must be no mechanical damage on the threaded parts of the cylinder.

The cuffs of the master cylinder must be resilient and elastic.

Rorn, swollen and hardened cuffs, as well as those with marks on the working surfaces, must be replaced.

The end of the pusher and the mating surface of the piston should not have obvious signs of one-sided wear.

Piston surfaces in contact with the cylinder face must also show no signs of wear on one side. Otherwise, the pusher and piston are recommended to be replaced.

The piston valve must not show visible signs of deformation and must fit snugly against the end of the piston.

The protective cap of the main cylinder must not have cracks and through holes. It should be installed on the pusher and master cylinder body with a slight interference. Otherwise, replace the cap.

A spring that is broken or has lost its elastic properties must be replaced.

The thread of the tips of the tube and hose should not have mechanical damage, the fitting of the tips - cracks and traces of visible deformation.

The assembly of the master cylinder is carried out in row, reverse disassembly.

Before assembling, it is necessary to lubricate the parts of the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. The cuff is installed on the piston with the working edge inside the cylinder.

Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to bleed the clutch release drive system.