During operation, the car's paintwork acquires microscopic damage (scratches, chips, cracks, pores, etc.)
Aggressive substances on the damaged surface lead to the destruction of the car's coating
To maintain the paintwork in perfect condition throughout its entire service life, not only timely and delicate washing is necessary, but also regular polishing with polishes that correspond to the condition of the paintwork (new, weathered or old coating).
When selecting polishes, you should take into account the condition of the coating and follow the recommendations for their use.
Polishes give the paintwork a gloss and, penetrating into microcracks, prevent its destruction.
Microabrasives contained in polishing compounds carefully smooth out the edges of scratches, and filler components (wax or polymers) mask risks.
Polishes form a protective film with various properties depending on the brand: tinting, anti-corrosion, hydrophobic, UV filters.
The durability of the protective film, depending on the type of polish (wax, synthetic, polymer), ranges from two or three washes to six months.
The use of polishes to restore the protective layer of the coating is required when, during the washing process, small drops of water do not form into large ones and do not roll off the body.
Recommendations for the use of materials to protect the paintwork during vehicle operation
First of all, during the first three months of operation, while the paintwork is finally forming, use only water with a soft cloth and car shampoo to care for it, then rinse the car body with clean water and wipe the surface dry.
It is not recommended to wash with hot water above 80°C, in bright sunlight or frost.
After the specified time, use polishes for new coatings (a coating is considered new if it has lost no more than 20% of its gloss).
Such a decrease in gloss is achieved in 1 - 1.5 years of intensive use during garage-free storage.
The use of polishes is a preventive measure, protecting the coating from external influences.
A paint coating that has lost 40% of its gloss is considered weathered. This condition is achieved after 2.5 - 3 years of intensive use when stored outside a garage.
In this condition, a significant change in color and whitishness are observed.
To care for such a coating, polishes for weathered coatings are recommended, which contain a large amount of abrasive substances.
After about 3 - 4 years of use, the coating is considered old. To renew such coatings, polishes for old coatings are used.
Polishing
Wash the body with water to remove dirt from the surface.
After inspecting the surface of the body, determine the area that requires polishing.
Prepare the polishing area by covering adjacent parts of the body with masking film.
To prevent the polish from drying out, polish the body in small areas by hand with clean flannel. It is possible to use a polishing machine with wool and foam wheels.
Medium-grained and fine-grained polishing pastes from various manufacturers can be used to eliminate minor defects in the paintwork.
After polishing, wipe the surface with a clean flannel.
Repair painting of bodies and body parts
Obtaining a working mixture of the product, methods and conditions for applying it to the surface should be selected according to the technological recommendations of the supplier of paints and varnishes used in painting.
The general provisions of the process of preparing and applying paints and varnishes are described below.
General principles of preparing and painting the body and body parts
In the area of preparation for painting, wash the body (part) with water and use a spatula or brush to remove the old peeling coating from the defective areas surfaces.
Perform (dry or wet) sanding of the surfaces to be painted, first with sandpaper of grain size P80-P120, then P180-P220.
When repainting a coating that does not have mechanical damage, sand the surface to the polyester primer of the factory paint.
If there is metal corrosion, chips or cracks in the paint coating, remove the old coating to the metal by grinding or washing.
If it is necessary to remove the old complex coating, use the SP-7 wash.
Apply it with a brush 2-3 times depending on the thickness of the paint coating. The time for softening the coating with the wash is 30-40 minutes. Use a brush or spatula to remove the softened coating.
Wipe the surfaces with white spirit to remove any remaining stripper, rinse thoroughly with water and dry.
Wash the body (part) with water, blow with compressed air and dry naturally.
Process difficult accessible areas of the body, from which it is impossible to remove corrosion mechanically, with a rust converter.
Use the rust converter according to the instructions for its use.
If necessary, fill in the defective areas of the body surface (parts). The viscosity of the putty should be convenient for application.
Dry the body (part) for 30 minutes in natural conditions, sand (dry or wet sanding) the putty surfaces with sandpaper of grain size P220-P320.
Wash the body (part) with water (when using wet sanding), blow with compressed air and dry in natural conditions.
Isolate surfaces that are not to be painted with thick paper and adhesive tape and install the body in a spray booth.
Clean the surfaces of the body (part) to be painted with a degreaser and remove dust with special wiping cloths.
On the areas of the surface cleaned to the metal and treated with a rust converter, apply one coat with a spray gun adhesion primer and let it sit for 5-7 minutes.
Use a spray gun to apply the primer-leveler to the surfaces covered with the adhesion primer, as well as to the replaced body parts.
Cover all the body surfaces to be painted with a second layer of primer-leveler.
Dry the primed surface at a temperature of (60+5)° C for 30 minutes.
If necessary, use an infrared radiation unit of the IF-06 type to dry individual body panels.
Remove the body (part) from the paint-drying chamber and cool it under natural conditions until it cools completely.
In the area of surface preparation for painting, sand (dry or wet) the primed surface of the body (part).
For dry sanding, use sandpaper with a grain size of P360-P400, then P500, for wet grinding - sandpaper with grain size P800-P1000.
Wash the body (part) with water (for wet grinding), blow with compressed air, dry in natural conditions.
Apply sealing mastic type D-5A to welds and joints at the junctions of replaced parts with the body, as well as in case of peeling of old mastic along the drainage channels of the roof, engine compartment, tailgate. Remove excess mastic with a rag soaked in white spirit.
Insulate surfaces that are not to be painted with thick paper and adhesive tape and install the body (part) in a paint and drying chamber.
Clean the surfaces to be painted with a degreaser and remove dust with special cleaning napkins.
Use a spray gun to apply the adhesion primer to the areas cleaned to the metal and let it sit for 5-7 minutes.
Prepare the color according to the technological recommendations of the paint and varnish supplier.
Attention: it is not allowed to mix components (primers, varnishes, enamels, thinners, etc.) of one paint and varnish repair system with products and substances of other repair systems.
It is necessary to follow all technological recommendations prescribed by the paint and varnish supplier. materials used in color selection.
When selecting the color of the car paintwork, the following factors must be taken into account:
- - age of the car; gloss of the varnished surface;
- - quality of the surface itself; original color tone or color changed over time;
- - plaque on the varnished surface as a result of environmental influences and insufficient car care; presence of scratches.
When determining the color of the car, it is necessary to wash and polish the repaired and adjacent surfaces.
Determine the color code using the color documentation provided by the supplier of paints and varnishes.
Check that the selected color matches the color of the car in natural light. Then select the correct paint formula-recipe according to the color documentation.
Be sure to test the prepared paint with a spray test.
Prepare the working solution of enamel and varnish in accordance with the supplier's recommendations.
Apply acrylic or base enamel with an intermediate exposure of 5-7 minutes to the surface of the part to be painted.
When painting the entire body, apply acrylic or base enamel with an intermediate exposure of 5-7 minutes to the inner painted surfaces of the passenger compartment, doorways, end surfaces of doors, engine compartment, luggage compartment.
Also apply enamel to the outer surfaces of the body with an intermediate exposure of 5-7 minutes.
When painting with the "base-varnish" system on outer surfaces covered with base enamel, apply varnish in two layers using the "wet on wet" method with with a holding time of 7-10 minutes between layers.
When painting individual body parts, if it is difficult to select the enamel color, it is possible to use the “transition painting” technique on adjacent parts.
It is advisable to perform the “transition painting” technique on a car body part located in the same plane as the adjacent y detail.
This allows you to bring the color of the repaired part as close as possible to the color of other adjacent surfaces of the body.
When performing the "transition painting" technique, follow the technological recommendations of the supplier (manufacturer) of paints and varnishes.
Before drying, hold for 5-7 minutes, then dry the coating at the temperature recommended by the supplier of paints and varnishes.
Remove the body (part) from the paint and drying chamber and cool under natural conditions.
Repair painting of plastic parts
All plastic exterior elements (bumper with radiator grille, rear bumper, arch trims, doors and sills, mirror trims, etc.), made of polypropylene with a high rubber content, have increased impact resistance, especially at low temperatures.
Plastic door trims protect door metal from minor damage over a larger surface area. In the GLS package, they are painted in the body color, which improves the appearance of the car.
Plastic door sill trims, painted black in bulk, with embossing are quite resistant to minor damage and scratches, protect the sills from mechanical impacts.
The rear bumper is black in the L package and painted in the body color in the GLS package, has an unpainted horizontal loading platform in the upper part and is unpainted in the lower part.
The front bumper in the middle lower part contains an unpainted protective pad with large embossing, which helps to increase resistance to scratches and minor damage.
In the L package, the bumper is not painted.
In the GLS package, the lower part of the bumper, which is most often exposed to all kinds of damage in off-road operating conditions, is painted black in bulk, which eliminates chipping.
At the same time, all parameters affecting the geometric cross-country ability of the vehicle.
Painting of plastic parts with visible embossing for GLS, GLC vehicles is carried out using one adhesive primer, and painting of plastic parts with embossing cover for GLS, GLC, L, LC vehicles is carried out using adhesive and pore-filling primers.
The surface of products made of polymeric materials for painting should not have mechanical damage and defects that appear on the paintwork: scratches, marks, delamination, etc.
The presence of silicone contaminants is not allowed.
The part is thoroughly cleaned under running water from the inside and outside. Heat treatment is carried out in a paint and drying chamber for an hour at a temperature of +60 ° C.
Do not start repairs without preliminary evaporation. All unpainted plastic parts are subject to evaporation in order to remove many types of contaminants from the surface as completely as possible.
On a new part, these are special lubricants that are applied to the mold for proper separation of the product from it.
External wax-based lubricants modified with silicone do not dissolve in water and are removed with a solvent and a sanding sponge.
When removing internal lubricants (self-separating materials that are a component of the plastic composition), it is necessary to warm up and only then clean with a sanding sponge moistened with a solvent.
In addition to removing lubricants, heating also reduces internal stresses in the plastic, which can subsequently result in cracking of the paint and varnish material.
With its help, shrinkage cavities - air inclusions - are revealed, and it becomes possible to eliminate them during work by puttying.
Another way to remove lubricants is firing method. The part is carefully, observing safety precautions, subjected to gas flame treatment.
It is extremely important not to heat the part to its full depth, so as not to allow its deformation.
After evaporation, degreasing and mandatory drying are carried out. Plastic products have the ability to accumulate static electric charge during processing.
The part that has accumulated the charge begins to attract dust, which can lead to defects during painting. A degreaser can remove a significant portion of static electricity from a part.
This is very important, for example, if you apply a primer to a “charged” plastic surface, the torch will not fall on a dry, cleaned substrate, but on a dusty one, because the untransferred dust will quickly stick to it.
After evaporation, the plastic part is ready for applying functional layers of paints and varnishes.
Even if you use a putty intended for direct application to a plastic surface, you need to apply a thin layer of primer - the adhesion will be an order of magnitude higher.
For a structural surface, you need to use a thin primer (3-5 microns). If you take a highly viscous material, it will not penetrate the pores.
On the surface, due to tension, it creates a film, and inside it creates a p cavity.
When heated, residues of either solvent, cleaner, or air may escape from this cavity, causing steam pressure. As a result, the material peels off the surface like a "stocking".
Scratches and unevenness on the part must be filled with a special putty for plastic products.
Such putty already contains plastic, so the applied material and the substrate react equally to grinding, to the temperature regime, are erased equally, have the same properties: hardness and plasticity, which leads to the erasure of the repair boundaries.
Universal putties (thin) for indirect use are applied to the primer in a very thin layer.
The plastic surface is prepared for putty with hard red Scotchbrite or an eccentric sander "on dry" sequentially with an abrasive with a gradation of P180-P280-P320. You need to work carefully with a grinding machine so as not to make "pits".
You should not process plastic parts at high speeds - this entails overheating and subsequent deformation.
Sometimes the putty, especially applied in a thin layer, can be pierced through to the plastic surface during grinding. Then the surface must be isolated with an adhesive primer.
Under the primer - filler, prepare the surface sequentially with abrasives P220-P280 - P320-P360. You can even go up to P400.
Filler is a thick-layer material that levels out minor irregularities.
The surface is sanded either manually with P240-P400 abrasives or with an eccentric sander P180-P280-P400.
It is necessary to degrease the surface after each operation.
In this case, it is necessary to let the degreaser evaporate (5-7 minutes), since the plastic part is capable of absorbing certain fractions that can appear on the coating material.
After the surface of the part is prepared for painting, a base coat of enamel is applied, and then a clear varnish.
Drying of the paint and varnish coating is carried out in a paint and drying chamber, and then the part is cooled under natural conditions.
Polymer products for the exterior Chevrolet NIVA cars are painted black or in the body color, using paints and varnishes and recommendations from the companies "Pter Lasce" or "Reoflex".
In case of using materials and technologies from other manufacturers, the quality of painting is not guaranteed by the plant.
