The idle speed controller serves to maintain the set idle speed of the engine unchanged when it is started, warmed up and load changes caused by the inclusion of auxiliary equipment
The regulator is a spool valve with electromagnetic control and serves to supply additional air to the intake pipe, bypassing the throttle.
If the idle speed controller fails or there is no contact in the plug block, the stability of the idle speed is disturbed (the speed “floats”).
The indicator lamp in the instrument cluster comes on.
If the idle speed is unstable and the control lamp does not light up, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connecting hoses.
Disconnect the wire from the "negative" terminal of the battery.
Loosen the clamps and disconnect hoses 1 and 2 from the regulator 5.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the connector 4 of the regulator
Unscrew the two bolts 3 fastening and remove the regulator.
Remove regulator 5 from clamp 6.
Install the new idle control in reverse order.
Remove the idle speed control.
Apply 12 V DC to the middle pin of the regulator connector and alternately to the side pins.
This should rotate the shutter to open or close the inlet port. If this does not happen, then the regulator is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Read more: Removing the secondary air regulator
Loosen the clamp with a screwdriver
Remove the air supply hose.
Loosen the lower hose clamp with a screwdriver.
Using a 10 key, we unscrew the two bolts securing the regulator to the intake system receiver.
Remove the regulator assembly with the bracket by removing the lower branch pipe of the regulator from the hose.
Remove the steel clamp and rubber tube from the regulator.
Install the regulator in reverse order
During installation, we are guided by the diameter of the regulator nozzles - the inlet is larger and should be located on top
Checking the secondary air regulator
Turn off the ignition and remove the negative terminal from the battery.
With an awl or a thin screwdriver, we snap off the block clamp and disconnect the regulator connector.
We measure the resistance of the two windings of the regulator with an ohmmeter, for which we connect one probe of the device to the central terminal, and the other to the extreme ones in turn.
For a working regulator, the resistance of each winding should be in the range of 10-14 ohms.
Having removed the regulator from the engine, we put it on the centralth output is a piece of PVC tube and insert the end of the bare wire into it.
We connect the central terminal with the plus of the battery, the minus - alternately with the extreme ones.
In one case, the damper should open completely, in the other it should close
If it doesn't, shake the control slightly to make sure the damper is not sticking.
We replace the defective regulator.